Curlew Island to Shoalwater Bay, 9/09/2008

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Today was tough. We had to beat straight into the teeth of the south-easterlies that have continued unabated now since 6 September in an effort to get to Pearl Bay. It meant motor-sailing, always 20 to 30 degrees off the wind to ease the exhausting bucking of the boat against the short sharp chop kicked up by 20 knot winds.

We pulled into Hexham Island at around 2PM for a break, lunch and to add some engine oil (aaargh…).

Lunch and essential maintenance at Fairfax Island

It was tempting to just stay, but the bottom was smooth rock with just a thin layer of sand, so the holding was not good, plus I was desperate to make some miles as we were now really running out of time to get Yvonne and Anna to Tin Can Bay by 15 September.

I decided to cut straight across to Shoalwater Bay and to sail in the sheltered waters down to Strong Tide Passage.

Sunset over Shoalwater Bay - shelter from the south-easterlies at last!

This turned out to be a great decision. As soon as we entered the lee of Cape Townshend the wind abated to 15 knots from the east, the water was flat and we were gliding along under sail with a couple of knots worth of tide behind us!

By 8PM we were anchored up a creek on Townshend Island (east of Marquis Island), having decided not to attempt the (apparently aptly named!!) Strong Tide Passage in the dark. This turned into one of the most peaceful nights I’ve ever had on board. We had dropped the anchor in two meters of water (under the keel) at high tide. I knew we were likely to touch at low tide, but the bottom was soft mud and we would be leaving at high tide in the morning. At about 11PM all motion stopped. There was absolutely no breeze and the keel had quietly settled into the mud, holding us ever so gently… I woke at 4:30 the next morning when she floated off and started bobbing in the ripples on the water.

Curlew Island, 8/09/2008

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We spent the day at anchor today, hoping that the south-easterlies will abate and maybe back to the east (or north-east even – please!).

Yvonne and Anna took the Fish Hunter (inflatable dinghy) out to the beach early in the morning to scout around, while I stayed on board to sort out a number of little jobs and do a general clean-up.

Anna rowing herself and Yvonne to shore at Curlew Island

Later in the afternoon Yvonne and I decided to climb the higher of the two peaks.

Ascending the western peak at Curlew Island

This turned into a serious climb… As usual it was steeper than it looked and the bush was dense to the point that it was a challenge to find a way up. Getting to the top was well worth it though. We had fabulous views in all wind directions and a stunning vista over the anchorage to the east.

Panorama over anchorage at Curlew Island

The descent was even more challenging than going up! We took a nominally flatter route (still quite steep, leaving us a with a bit of a hike at the water’s edge. As it was now high tide this caused its own little challenges…

Descending the hill at Curlew Island was harder than going up!

Scawfell to Curlew Island, 7/09/2008

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The south-easterlies are persisting, making life rather tedious. We tacked into it all day today, making up our destination as we went along! In the end the breeze swung around to the east as the day wore (literally) on and I made for the shelter of Curlew Island. I was pleased with this. We nearly ended up at Middle Percy, not a bad spot, but I’ve been there and I was keen to see something different.

Snacking as we approach Curlew Island

As it happened, Curlew Island has turned out to be a great choice. The anchorage is better protected in a south-easter than Middle Percy would be and it has a stunning long white beach, flanked by imposing peaks on both ends.

Mackay to Scawfell Island, 06/09/2008

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Yvonne and Anna arrived late on 5 September and we went off to town to do a bit more provisioning.

We couldn’t get everything though, so this morning I did another trip into Mackay. My greatest need was for another ice box to carry extra ice as we could be out off port for up to 7 days. I also needed some swimwear – left at home!

I was up early and fitted the liferaft to the foredeck (an ill-advised decision, I later realized).

I returned around 11AM with my purchases. Yvonne and Anna had filled the diesel tanks and jerry cans and we set off before noon, fully stocked with food, drink, water, diesel and ice.

Anna on the helm soon after leaving Mackay

I was initially going to head south-east, but a lot of factors mitigated against this:

  • we only had half a day left and both girls were looking a bit green as soon as we got out the marina;
  • the wind was blowing from the south-east, so it would be hard work; and
  • we only had half a day of sunlight left and an overnight sail on the first day with two sea-sick crew seemed a bit cruel…

So, we made for Scawfell Island, an anchorage I knew from our previous stay there would be protected in a south-easterly breeze. Everyone was relieved once the pick was set and we were just in time to enjoy happy hour with some whales blowing in the distance.

Happy hour at Scawfell Island