Hamilton Island and Whitehaven Beach

After another day of relaxed downwind sailing in the prevailing south-easterly trades, we were escorted into a berth at Hamilton Island Marina early afternoon on 7 July 2008. Our mission was to replenish water, ice and perishables as quickly as possible before sailing to Whitehaven Beach where we intended to anchor for two nights.

Mission accomplished we set sail around 1600 and headed round the northern tip of Hamilton Island and up the Catsey Beach side of Hamilton Island. We were soon close-hauled into the south-easterly, with the crew enjoying the conditions perfectly suited to our boat.

Sunny Spells heeled at 30 degrees with Catseye Beach, Hamilton Island , in the background

This was the first time the crew had to tack the boat in 10 days of sailing! It was great to sit on the high rail and feel the power in the rig blasting us through the chop, with spray flying everywhere.

With the south-easterly breeze set to persist and strengthen, we elected to anchor off Haslewood Beach, directly opposite Whitehaven Beach. Two boats were already anchored in the best spots, and we found an anchorage in the northern corner.

The bottom shelves very steeply in this anchorage, and it can be hard to find a safe spot to drop the hook while keeping a safe swinging distance from the fringing reef. We anchored just after low tide and, knowing that our water depth would be greater than at anchoring time through the night, I resolved to get up early and review our location. Nonetheless, I spent the first 3 hours watching the bottom on the sounder to make sure we were not swinging too close to the reef. Next morning I was up at dusk, continuing my assessment. I realized soon enough that, with the scope we had paid out the previous night, our swinging circle would soon be bringing us closer to the reef than I liked. The windlass was used to slowly bring us closer to the anchor and away from the reef. One of the boats left early and we soon pulled up anchor and relocated south. Shortly after, the other boat, located in the best spot, also left, and we dropped the hook just atop the shelf in about 7 meters (low tide) and put out 40 meters of rode. This left us swinging comfortably clear of the reef but still provided almost 4:1 scope at high tide.

A little later, almost at high tide, we were treated to the sight of a chartered Beneteau 32 steaming into the anchorage at 5 knots, straight across the fringing reef, to drop anchor inside the reef, about 20 meters from the beach… A potential disaster at low tide was averted when they soon decided on a more prudent course of action (possibly after radio discussion with the charter company) and relocated across the passage to Whitehaven Beach, where about three dozen charter boats were safely anchored.

Charter boat anchored inside fringing reef at Hasslewood Beach

The day was squally with lots of rain and gusts up to 28 knots. We were appalled when monitoring the weather broadcasts from the charter companies to hear forecasts for 10 to 15 knot winds…

Towards the evening we all had to get out, and I went for a lovely snorkel on the reef. My one regret is that we didn’t really have great diving weather. While it was fun snorkelling, the lack of direct sunlight meant everything was pretty grey and low-contrast, so there was no point donning the Scuba gear. Oh well, there is always the return passage!

On Wednesday morning the crew went for a quick snorkel while I got Sunny Spells ready. We pulled up the anchor at around 0800 and the crew soon had the full main up as we motor-sailed out the passage. A boat coming the other way (looked like a 40ft+ Beneteau) was running downwind with three reefs in the main and just as I was about to make a remark on the weatherliness of modern boats, I checked myself and called for two reefs in the main. As we came out of the passage into open waters the full strength of the south-easter hit us, and we were soon broad-reaching towards Hamilton Island in 25 to 30 knots of breeze with the spray flying. This was the perfect way to end our ten day passage. The crew were working together like they’ve been doing it for years and I realized I was going to be very sad to see them go…

Crew photo at the dock, Hamilton Island, at the end of our trip

Finding Good Help…

While I’m quite happy sailing Sunny Spells on my own, doing so 24/7 is probably not the most sensible thing to do. So I advertised on FindACrew.net. The passage from Mooloolaba to Hamilton Island would take place during the school holidays, which must have suited a lot of people, because I was inundated with interest. Let’s face it, sailing the Whitsundays is not an unattractive prospect either! I was spoilt for choice, so I could select what I thought would be a good mix: one experienced sailor, who could be watch captain, and two competent crew, to be… competent crew! I also tried to match the ages, so they ended up all being in their late twenties.

My crew for the passage from Mooloolaba to Hamilton Island

Matching the personalities was harder to do. While I spoke with all of them on the phone, trying to judge their sailing experience, it is impossible to really assess personalities on the phone. All I can say is that it’s worked out great! Sarah, George and Vicky got on really well with each other and it’s been fun watching them work and play.

Everyone has participated one hundred percent and it has been great to see them settle into the boat and start working together as a team. The cooking has been fabulous and we have lived like kings. Even more remarkable has been the willingness with which everyone has pulled his/her weight when it came to cleaning up. The dishes always seemed to wash themselves and whenever we anchored the crew immediately, and without prompting, started cleaning and tidying the boat before relaxing. Very impressive!

Sarah scrubbing the decks

I’ve obviously been very lucky, but finding these people certainly has restored some of my faith in humanity. It’s marvelous what you can find on the internet these days…

Scawfell Island

After a very rolly night at Middle Percy Island, we set sail for Scawfell Island at 0645 on Saturday 5 February 2008. The forecast promised 20 to 25 knot south-eaterlies so we played it safe: poled-out no.2 genoa and main by the lee. The wind averaged around 15 knots all day and we managed a consistent 6 to 7 knots boat speed. By 1630 we were dropping the hook in Refuge Bay, Scawfell Island.

Crew paddling out to snorkel in Refuge Bay, Scawfell Island

We spent a lazy day at anchor, snorkelling and fishing (I should say angling because we caught nothing…). In the evening we played a game of monopoly, which the skipper won despite the collaborative best efforts of the crew to prevent him by any means, however devious – sorry guys!

Monopoly in Refuge Bay!

The Percy Isles

The guide books (Alan Lucas) recommend the Percy Isles as a stopover on the passage to the Whitsundays and I reckoned it was sensible to go with Alan’s recommendations for my first passage up the coast. The Percy Isles certainly exceeded all our expectations!

We arrived at South Percy Island at midnight after a long day of trade wind sailing under spinnaker we eased into our anchorage for a peaceful night.

Trade wind sailing under spinnaker

The following morning, in deference to the late night, I enjoyed a quiet morning on deck with coffee and my “Ouma” rusks while the crew slept peacefully. At about 9AM we set sail for Middle Percy Island and anchored West Bay for the day.

Sunny Spells anchored at Middle Percy Island

We spent a delightful day at Middle Percy. After cleaning the boat (great crew!) Sarah swam out to the beach while George and Vicky paddled out. They spent a lovely morning exploring the island and the shed on the beach (the “Hilton”!)that has the greatest collection of artifacts left by yachties over the years.

I, meanwhile, set about doing some essential repairs.

First on the list was the alternator… While it was still charging, more or less, it wouldn’t get over 12.6 Volts, and I suspected the engine electrical panel and alternator warning light/field circuit. When that checked out okay, I stuck my head into the engine room where the fault was immediately obvious: the earth wire to the alternator had broken off! This was easily fixed by crimping a new lug on the wire and. voila she was charging at 14 volts or better again!

My second task was to re-splice the anchor chain to rope connection. This had started to fray after a couple of trips through the windlass gypsy. Now it got jammed in the windlass every time and I was also worried about the strength of the splice. I soon had that spliced and was well chuffed with the appreciative comments from the crew!

The Hilton on Middle Percy

Later that night, after a lovely beach barbeque, the crew took a (surplus to reqs) danbuoy back to the shed suitably inscribed it and left our token.

Our addition to the Middle Percy shed of memories

The crew decided that preparing food on dry land was a good idea and a barbeque was soon planned. While we swam and fished Sarah put everything together. George and Vicky were on the beach already, collecting firewood, and Sarah ferried me to the beach at sunset.

The luxury of being ferried to the beach!

Having a barbeque on the beach was a lovely change of pace. We were treated to a stunning sunset, the food was great and the three trips back to the boat in the dinghy felt like just the right way to end the evening.

Sunset at Middle Percy Island