Slow Dance to Portobelo

After 11 weeks in Le Marin waiting, the anchor finally came up and Sunny Spells once again pointed her bow west — bound for Portobelo, Panama, with 1,268 miles of Caribbean Sea ahead and a generous weather window on offer.

Departure day was textbook. Moderate 10 to 18 knot tradewinds from behind and a comfortable sea made for a spirited start. It was just Maria and me this time, running our tried-and-tested 6-hour shifts from the Indian Ocean crossing. The waxing moon offered a silver trail westward, and Starlink meant we could share our sunset in real-time. Not bad, this 21st-century sailing.

From the outset, conditions were dreamy: consistent wind, a favourable Equatorial Current giving us up to 2 knots over the ground, and day after day of fast, comfortable sailing. For nearly 900 miles, we didn’t so much as touch a sail. It was one of those rare passages where the log fills itself and the only thing left to do is eat, nap, adjust the firmware, and debate whether we’re going too fast to bother fishing.

We passed the ABC islands — Bonaire, Curaçao, Aruba — by night, crossing the halfway point near Curaçao. A brief spell of stronger winds brought lively conditions, with short, steep seas slapping over the transom and the odd ankle-deep reminder that the Caribbean can get punchy when it wants to. But it didn’t last.

By Day 6 the wind began to slacken. Slowly at first — just enough to make us fiddle with sails and debate genoa swaps — and then, by Day 7, to the point where the main sail flopped helplessly in the swell and had to be bagged. We drifted with the staysail poled out and made the best of a gentle ride under a full moon. Even in 1.4 knots of apparent wind, we made 50 miles overnight. We called it a win.

Eventually, the engine was summoned to balance the batteries and encourage our progress. A tangled lump of Sargassum offered some brief drama on the prop, but reverse cleared it. Three hours later we were back under sail — exactly the same sail plan as before, as if nothing had happened.

With light winds and flat seas, Sunny Spells entered her element: beam reaching in 6–8 knots, perfectly balanced, sliding along at 5–6 knots like a content cat. The only job left was to switch out sails — the poled-out downwind rig was retired after a heroic run, and we bent on the big #2 genoa and full main for the final reach into Panama.

The last 24 hours were perhaps the most idyllic of the lot: blue skies, glassy sea, and enough breeze to keep us moving without disturbing the peace. We crossed the last hundred miles slowly, enjoying the ride. Then, just to keep us sharp, the final approach stiffened up with gusts to 18 knots and a brisk reach across the busy approach lanes to the Panama Canal.

Anchoring in the dark in an unfamiliar bay — full of unlit obstructions, naturally — was a fitting finale. But we dropped hook safely in the still waters of Portobelo and cracked open our long-overdue anchor beers. The slow dance is over. We’ve made it across another sea.

Two Thousand Miles and One Last Breeze

The last leg of our Atlantic crossing played out like a slow dance — one led alternately by the wind and the hum of the diesel engine.

Boxing Day brought a pause in the wind and a shift in tempo. Around 3AM the breeze dropped below five knots, and with sails flogging uselessly, we fired up the motor. Mercifully, the seas were now long and lazy — perfect motoring weather, if there is such a thing. With electricity on tap, it turned into a productive day: Sunny Spells got a washdown to rid herself of Saharan dust, the laundry buckets were put to work, and the galley became a bakery. Gabro produced a sourdough loaf, I baked my mother’s buttermilk rusks, and Mariona conjured up a tuna stew. We even managed a hull scrub and a sail change.

Later in the day the breeze began to fill in. With the big laminate genoa and mainsail up, we found ourselves reaching comfortably, finally pointed toward Martinique.

Forecast models were now diverging, but we chose to believe the optimistic one — and for a while, it paid off. The next few days were a medley of light-air sailing punctuated by glassy, oil-slick motoring. One morning, the wind teased us with just enough puff to fly full canvas. A baby Mahi Mahi came and went (lucky fish), followed shortly by an unlucky 7kg yellowfin tuna who made a final and delicious contribution to the voyage.

December 29th was a slow day under power, and morale dipped with the droning engine. Still, we found pleasure in the little things: Mariona baked banana bread and wholewheat loaf, and dinner was pasta with cream and veg. At sunset, we flirted with sailing again — the wind briefly stirred, then stilled. As we doused the mainsail in frustration, a solid 15-knot NE breeze kicked in just to mock us. We hoisted again, reefed, unreefed, debated reefing again. It was a full evening of trimming and trimming again, ending with Mariona hand-steering in whispers of wind to keep us above 4 knots. Remarkably, we still clocked 126 miles for the day.

By the 30th, Barbados was abeam and we could smell landfall. Despite a forecast for motoring, we managed to sail the whole day on a close reach in 8–12 knots, clocking a satisfying 77 miles for the daylight hours. A plane passed overhead — the first one we’d seen since leaving Las Palmas — and lights twinkled on the horizon. But the AIS remained eerily silent. Despite the flood of pink icons on MarineTraffic, the ocean out here still feels vast and lonely.

We closed the gap on Martinique in style. A final spinnaker run saw us gliding along at full speed under canvas on New Year’s Eve, land rising gently on the horizon. First Saint Lucia’s mountains, then the low coast of Martinique. At 3:30PM local time, we let go the anchor at Petit Anse de Salines, after 2,250 miles and 17 days at sea since Mindelo.

That night, there were hammocks, a long-overdue drink, and the promise of pizza. There may even have been fireworks — but we didn’t make it past dinner.

Martinique Landfall
Martinique Landfall

Christmas at Sea!

Christmas in the Atlantic
Christmas in the Atlantic

Since the last blog entry, Sunny Spells has covered a good slice of the Atlantic — and celebrated Christmas in the most nautical way possible: with dolphins, Prosecco, and Sargassum.

After a solid week of trade wind sailing, we’ve passed the halfway mark to the Caribbean. Conditions have been remarkably kind, with the wind mostly around 15 knots from the east, the swell settling into a longer, more regular rhythm, and the autopilot largely behaving itself — though it’s starting to show signs of needing a bit more positive reinforcement.

Sailing has been so stable that we went six days without changing the sail trim — an unprecedented stretch in Sunny Spells’ history. We finally gybed and poled out the headsails on opposite sides in textbook Atlantic crossing fashion, mostly to dodge a windless hole forecast east of the Windward Islands. It felt almost indulgent to do something as radical as adjusting the sails.

Meals have remained, if you’ll forgive the pun, consistently top notch. From Thai green curry to Spaghetti Carbonara with Pecorino, from a vegetarian medley of polenta and panic-picked vegetables to Christmas Eve potato salad and Christmas Day sushi — the galley has done us proud. Highlights include homemade risotto with porcini mushrooms followed by panettone and mascarpone cream, a proper fruit salad, and a dolphin-lit sunset with sails gleaming silver in the moonlight.

Speaking of dolphins: we’ve had a few pods cruise by to check on our progress, most recently on Christmas Eve when they played in the moonlight beside the boat. Magic.

Of course, not everything has been perfect. The autopilot has taken to disengaging randomly, usually in the wee hours when one is least inclined to hand steer. We’ve also had a mystery vibration from the propeller, traced to a tangle of Sargassum wrapped around the prop shaft. A snorkel inspection cleared it up — quite literally — and the engine is now purring along as it should.

The Sargassum itself deserves a dishonourable mention. One morning we awoke to find ourselves not in the Atlantic but in a soup of floating seaweed. The stuff stretched as far as the eye could see — an unwelcome development with light airs ahead and a need to motor. Thankfully, our southern detour seems to have left the worst of it behind.

We’ve now turned our bow northwest again, pointing toward Martinique — though Grenada was briefly on the cards when it looked like we’d be too far south. The forecast shows gentle winds and small seas all the way to the finish line, with a full moon lighting our path and a likely landfall on New Year’s Eve.

We’ve crossed time zones (UTC–3 now, greetings Brazil), passed the halfway mark, and adjusted to life afloat in a rhythm that now feels almost domestic. Uno has emerged as the official board game of the crossing. A full match can apparently outlast a night watch.

More soon — but for now, fair winds, full bellies, and a very Merry Christmas from somewhere out on the wide blue sea.

Day 5 of the Atlantic

It was a day pretty much like yesterday – heading west with 15 knots from behind. The Autopilot is behaving herself, for the moment anyway. Probably just lulling us into a false sense of security.

We landed a 5kg striped tuna around 11AM, and it promptly became lunch, pan fried with a salad. About two thirds went into the freezer as steaks and sashimi for another day.

Not long before midnight, sailing under a 33% waxing moon, our first Atlantic squall – heavy rain that lasted no more than a minute. Just enough to wash some of the dust from the Saharan dust cloud (that coats everything with a light brown sticky residue) onto the decks. We’ll find out soon enough…